Another big wave surfer, Sion Miloski, is drowned at Mavericks. He left two young children. Someone, maybe them, wrote “we love you Daddy” in the sand at the beach where they found his body. One could say, how self-centered and foolish to surf 60 foot waves, especially with little kids at home. However, moralizing is a poor container for what will not be contained. There is a fierce and terrible beauty when young men tempt fate. They would agree with you if you called them fools.
From Finishing Line Press
